Aethos

Specialist timber door repair · St Andrews & Fife

Before you buy new,
look at what you have.

A good timber door can be worth keeping. Worn paint, damaged edges and local defects are different from a door that is structurally beyond repair. I look at the leaf, frame and how the door works, then set out what can be repaired before the colour and finish are chosen.

Assessment first. Local repairs where suitable. A compatible painted finish, with the scope agreed in writing.

Illustrative preserved green panelled timber front door with brass fittings and sandstone surround

Read the surface

Not every defect
means replacement.

The visible damage is a starting point, not a diagnosis. These are the details I look at before recommending work on your doors.

A tired finish, not a tired door

Scratches, chips and worn paint often need careful preparation and a compatible coating, not a replacement leaf.

Damage at the bottom edge

Rain and exposed end grain can cause local deterioration. I check how far it extends and whether the surrounding timber remains sound.

Cracks around the panels

Traditional panels move with moisture changes. Rigidly filling every joint can create fresh problems. The construction guides the repair.

Sticking or rubbing

Seasonal swelling, hinge problems and paint build up need different responses. A decorating repair cannot correct a distorted frame or failed joint.

Preserve where it makes sense

Repair is a judgement.
Not a promise at any cost.

Keeping sound timber can preserve the proportions and detail of your home. But safety, remaining strength and the cause of damage matter more than saving a component that has failed.

A good candidate for repair

  • The leaf and frame have sound underlying timber.
  • The door is secure and its main joints are stable.
  • Damage can be repaired without compromising operation.
  • The existing character and proportions suit the building.

When another specialist comes first

  • A twisted leaf, failed joints or extensive decay.
  • A frame that has moved or can no longer hold fixings securely.
  • Lock, hinge or security problems needing specialist repair.
  • Fire doors, composite doors or certified assemblies needing approved work.

From assessment to finish

How I repair
your doors.

Eight stages, with a reason for each. The exact method is specified after inspection. Not every defect needs every treatment, and hidden damage can change the scope.

This describes the service, not a universal DIY method. Old coatings, glass, access at height and certified components need appropriate assessment.

Arrange an assessment
  1. Assess the door, not just the paint

    I examine the leaf, panels, mouldings, frame and threshold, including the edges where accessible. The previous finish, timber condition and how the door opens and closes establish whether repair is sensible.

    The check: Agree whether this is a decorative repair or a joinery problem.

  2. Set out the repair and working plan

    The quotation identifies which face, edges, frame and fittings are included. We discuss security, access and drying before starting, particularly where this is the only entrance. A door is not left unsecured as an assumed part of the process.

    The check: Make access, scope and overnight security explicit.

  3. Protect and prepare safely

    Floors, glass and adjacent finishes are protected. Suitable fittings are removed or masked as agreed. Older paint is assessed for lead before disturbance, with controlled preparation and appropriate extraction, containment and waste handling.

    The check: Prepare safely without damaging glass, fittings or neighbouring finishes.

  4. Expose the true extent of the defect

    Loose paint is removed and failed material is assessed back to a sound background. Moisture and the cause of damage must be addressed. If the defect proves deeper than expected, I stop and explain the revised options before proceeding.

    The check: No filler over soft timber and no coating over unresolved damp.

  5. Repair what can be retained

    Small stable defects and suitable local timber damage are repaired with materials selected for the location and exposure. Repair systems are used within their stated limits. A failed bottom rail, loose structural joint or substantial timber replacement needs a joiner.

    The check: Choose a repair that supports the existing door, not disguises failure.

  6. Recover the shape and prepare the surface

    Once cured, repairs are shaped to the existing profile. Sound coatings are prepared for adhesion and transitions are feathered. Panel movement and drainage details are respected; sanding is not used to force a swollen door to fit without understanding the cause.

    The check: Keep the mouldings crisp and the moving details free.

  7. Prime, undercoat and finish

    Bare timber and repairs receive compatible preparation coats. The finish is applied in a sequence suited to the panels, rails and stiles, with attention to accessible edges. Recoat intervals, ventilation and exterior weather conditions follow the chosen system.

    The check: Good coverage without excessive build up at contact points.

  8. Reinstate, check and hand over

    Agreed fittings are reinstated and the finish is checked once it permits handling. We confirm closing arrangements so fresh coatings do not stick to seals or stops. I leave the product, colour and sheen record, plus curing and cleaning advice.

    The check: A finish you can look after, and clear advice on using the door again.

Beyond the repair

The finish protects
the work beneath it.

Colour with the building in mind

Look at the stone, surrounding trim and the light on the entrance. A physical sample is more useful than a colour viewed only on a phone.

Sheen suited to the surface

Higher sheen makes preparation more visible. I discuss the appearance you want alongside the condition and detail of the existing timber.

Dry is not the same as cured

A finish can feel dry while remaining vulnerable to pressure and cleaning. Closing, handling and washing advice follows the actual product used.

Small checks.
Better ongoing care.

  • Check bottom edges, joints and exposed frame details for early coating failure.
  • Clean gently with the method recommended for the coating once fully cured.
  • Keep water from collecting at the threshold and investigate recurring damp.
  • Act on sticking, loose hardware or damage rather than forcing the door.

Before you enquire

A few practical questions.

The right advice depends on the surface in front of us. These are useful starting points.

Is repair always cheaper than a new door?

Not always. Extensive decay, failed joints or security problems can make replacement more sensible. The comparison should include the frame, fitting, making good and finishing, not only the price of a new leaf.

Can you repair my front door without removing it?

Some work can be completed in place. The underside, extent of repair, weather and drying arrangements may require a different sequence. Removal is never assumed, and we agree access and security before the job begins.

Can you work on internal doors too?

Yes, suitable timber internal doors can be assessed for local repairs and repainting. Damage to hollow doors, veneers and sheet materials needs a different judgement from a solid timber leaf. The material is checked first.

What about fire doors or composite doors?

Fire doors and other certified assemblies must retain their performance and approved components. I do not offer a generic repair to these through this service. Composite, metal and uPVC doors require manufacturer specific advice and are not treated as timber.

Will the repaired area disappear completely?

Careful shaping and preparation aim for a consistent painted appearance, but old movement, grain and previous repairs can remain visible. The expected finish is discussed honestly. A clear or stained finish is less forgiving of repairs than an opaque paint.

How long will it take?

Assessment, repair depth, drying, curing and the weather determine the programme. Some repair systems need separate visits. I agree a practical sequence rather than promise a universal turnaround or rush a coating before it is ready.

Start with what is there

Thinking of
keeping yours?

Send a few details about your doors. I will help establish whether a decorating repair is a sensible next step or whether another trade needs to assess it first.

Discuss your doors

Useful details for your enquiry

  • Your location and which areas of your doors need attention.
  • A description of the material, age if known and any earlier repairs.
  • What is happening: flaking, softness, sticking or water coming in.
  • Whether the property is listed and whether access is straightforward.

If sharing photographs, include an overall view and close views of the affected areas. Please do not climb or disturb loose paint to take them.